January 22 to January 29
The Murray, Lyrup |
Sunday we were deciding where to head to escape the
afternoon heat and the predicted 390C for Monday. There is a low
cost camp at Lyrup, about 15km out of Renmark, right on the Murray, next to the
vehicular ferry. Lyrup is one of the original 12 small agricultural towns which
sprang up in 1894, when the SA Government created a communal land system. Lyrup
was the site of the first grape plantations for Angove wineries, back in 1914.
South Australian Border, familiar trucking company |
This low cost ($5 per night) camp has four power outlets for
caravans or motorhomes available, on a first come first served basis, with a
maximum three days stay. For the lucky ones, the power outlet is complimentary.
We arrived at lunchtime, and were VERY fortunate to secure a powered site. It
certainly makes those hot afternoons (2pm to 9pm) a lot more bearable in the
air conditioning (I think we’re getting soft).
The mornings were still quite pleasant so we explored the
town and walked and cycled the tracks along the Murray, leading to numerous
permanent-looking houseboats moored amongst the reeds and willows.
30 Metre high wheat silo mural, Brim |
Tuesday we left Lyrup and drove east, having a coffee at the
Victorian border as we headed to Mildura. A familiar branded “B” Double parked
next to us at the border, check the photo. Once in Mildura we stocked up on
essentials and drove to Kings Billabong, a free camping area on the Murray
about 10km out of town.
We camped near Psyche Pumps, an important site in the
history of the irrigation of the region. In 1877 the Chaffey Brothers purchased
the entire “failed” Mildura Irrigation Colony from the state government, and
developed a series of pumps and lagoons to lift water from the Murray and
irrigate some 33,000 acres.
Giant Koala, Dadswells Bridge |
The Psyche Pumps were the first of the series
built, and are still steam operational, being run regularly by the historical
group. The region still produces 98% of Australia’s dried vine fruits, 75% of
table grapes and 69% of almonds.
Wednesday we drove south through wheat and sheep country for
a couple of hundred kilometres, passing through numerous small country towns.
We stopped for lunch at Brim, at the lake just out of town. After lunch and a
walk around the lake, we decided to stop for the night as it is a low cost camp
area, and very peaceful.
As we left on Thursday we stopped at the wheat silos in Brim
to admire the mural paintings. Painted last year, they are the first in a
series of five rural wheat silo sites which are to be painted and become a
tourist drive. As you can see from the photo the 30 metre high artwork is
spectacular and the series will become a terrific tourist drawcard.
Hallowed turf, Stawell Athletic Club |
We travelled south to Horsham before spending the rest of
the day in the Grampians. This rugged mountain range are very popular with rock
climbers and bush walkers. We walked the Beehive Falls trail, although the
falls were unfortunately dry. We visited the “Giant Koala” at Dadwells Bridge
before stopping down the road at Canadian Gully, a pretty lake with abundant
birdlife.
Look at those guns! |
Friday we visited Stawell, famous for the Stawell Gift professional
foot races run every Easter. Central Park and the Stawell Athletic Club Museum were
fantastic, with artefacts dating back to the first race in 1877.
From there we drove to Ararat, and visited the Aradale Asylum
and J-Ward. Ararat was the home to institutionalised mental patients in
Victoria since the mid 1800’s. Aradale was a purpose built township of some 70
buildings to house and treat “the growing number of lunatics in the colony of
Victoria” (their words, not mine), while J-Ward was a high security modified jail
for the “criminally insane”. Both these institutions were still operating until
the late 1990’s. Unfortunately we couldn’t tour Aradale, but did a guided tour
of J-Ward. It was both interesting and depressing to hear how they treated
mental illness in the not too distant past. Friday night we stopped at a rest
stop at Shelford, about 70km from Geelong.
Inside J-Ward, Ararat |
Saturday we drove to Geelong and Queenscliff and on to the
vehicular ferry to cross to the Mornington Peninsula. We have come this
direction to stop in Blairgowrie at Margaret’s for a few days R&R (and
chores, mail collection, etc.) before continuing around the coastline.
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